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Where to stay off the beaten track in the Rhône Valley

From treehouses to campsites overlooking vineyards, Matt Walls reports from the Rhône on some of the best alternative accommodation options for those wishing to avoid humdrum hotels

Words by Matt Walls

From cabins to guesthouses, the Rhône is a region that offers many different options for adventurous tourists

When visiting the Rhône, hotels are just one option when it comes to accommodation – there are plenty of other choices, including guesthouses, gîtes, campsites… even treehouses. Or why not stay at a winery? Many estates have cottages or converted barns in the grounds. You can even find rooms in some ancient chateaux. Nothing beats waking up to birdsong among the vines. Take at our list of the best vineyard stays and other accommodation across the Rhône to really immerse yourself within this historic winemaking region.

The best vineyard stays and alternative accommodation in the Rhône

Northern Rhône

Huttopia

various sites

Huttopia was established in 1999 with a single campsite in the Drôme. Today, there are 152 sites across 3 continents. Most of them are in France, and there are five within the Rhône Valley. Most have a mix of pitches for tents and motor homes, and semi-permanent, wood-and-canvas accommodation of various types and sizes. Either way, you’ll find a swimming pool, restaurant, bar and a packed timetable of daily activities for children and adults alike. Even their most basic ‘pret à camper’ accommodation has a real bed, a fridge, grill, table, chairs and a wooden terrace. More luxurious cabins have running water, toilets, showers… others have wood burning stoves if you’re visiting in winter. There are several elements that make Huttopia a cut above most traditional campsites: the cleanliness and good order of the sites; the professionalism and warmth of the staff; the natural beauty of the settings. So you feel like you’re getting back to nature, but it still feels like a holiday rather than a test of survival skills. Most sites purposely don’t offer a wifi connection (there is a connected terminal at reception should you really need it). Don’t worry, you can simply pretend to your kids that you didn’t know…

Pays de Condrieu – their most recently opened site at the time of writing, so everything feels brand new. It’s situated on the plateau above the village, with beautiful views. And just a short drive from Condrieu and Côte-Rôtie, and not far from Lyon.

Sud Ardèche – a 14ha site close to Vallon Pont d’Arc, so it’s perfect for exploring the Gorges de l’Ardèche. There are Nordic hot tubs in a little outdoor spa area to sooth your aching muscles when you get back.

Le Moulin – a smaller 7ha site with direct access to the Ardèche river for swimming. It’s located in Saint-Martin-d’Ardeche, a 10-minute drive from both Domaine Saladin and Domaine de Couron – both of which are well worth visiting.

Dieulefit – 20km north is the Diois; 20km south is Visan and Valréas – so there are many wine villages nearby to explore… but with hot tubs, saunas and wild swimming in the lake there’s plenty to do on site as well.

Fontvieille – situated in a pine forest in the Alpilles Regional Park, it feels far from civilisation – but it’s just a 15-minute walk from the village of Fontvieille, with its shops, restaurants, and excellent wine shops.

huttopia.com

Domaine de Gorneton

Chasse sur Rhône

David Renaud bought the ruins of a 17th century maison forte in 2017, and after a huge renovation job, opened Domaine de Gorneton – 5 rooms, 3 events spaces and a restaurant, Les Nympéas. In the grounds, with its ponds and mature trees, is a hectare of vines that will, he hopes, sit within the future appellation of Vienne Seyssuel. The restaurant’s wine list features dozens of wines from this newly rediscovered viticultural area in fact. The rooms are generously proportioned, with some containing original flooring from the 17th century. It would make an ideal overnight stop, particularly for families – there are plenty of board games and a pool table if they tire of the gardens.

ledomainedegorneton.com

Clos de la Garelle

Crozes

Clos de la Garelle is a renovated villa deep in the countryside near the village of Crozes, a short drive from Tain l’Hermitage. It’s owned by Damien and Delphine Segond of Hotel de la Villeon, and you can expect a similar quality of interior, this time with a touch of chinoiserie thanks to the history of this former hunting lodge. The six double bedrooms are simpler than those at their hotel in Tournon, but most of your time will no doubt be spent in the common areas – the house is only rented out as a single unit. It has a large outdoor pool a few minutes from the house, a family kitchen (and separate prep kitchen), a hammam and a separate 1-bed flat for your nanny/driver/chef. The perfect place to celebrate your next big birthday.

hoteldelavilleon.com

La Tour du Pavillon

Tain l’Hermitage

There are very few private houses on the hill of Hermitage itself, and certainly no hotels. But if you look closely, you’ll see a little white two-storey building among the vines. It belongs to Chapoutier – and you can stay there. La Tour du Pavillon

sleeps two people, and you can make use of the small kitchen and dining area within. Imagine sitting among the vines, drinking a bottle of Hermitage on the hill itself, the orange sun slowly dipping… bliss. You can also hire electric bikes to explore the area, and they offer various tasting experiences in their boutique a short walk away.

chapoutier-gites.com

La Peniche B&B

Tournon

There’s something slightly magical about waking up to see sunlight dancing on the ceiling reflected from the river. When you get out of bed, the Rhône is nearly at eye level – La Peniche is an atypical and fun place to stay for a number of reasons. Firstly – well, it’s a boat. Secondly, there are no staff on hand – you’re sent a QR code that unlocks the shared, glass-walled upper deck and your bedroom downstairs. The rooms, though lacking certain amenities like fridges, all have air conditioning and are decorated to a higher standard than you might expect. There is a shared kitchen area upstairs but you’ll have to pop to the shops to buy anything to eat or drink – it’s moored close to the main square (and car park), so you don’t have far to walk. Breakfast however can be provided – as can secure bicycle storage, which is handy as La Peniche is on the ViaRhôna cycle route. Just one word of warning: don’t let your phone run out of battery or you won’t be able to get back in!

lapeniche.biz

Camping Ferme Le Simondon

Plats

Take the twisting road up from Mauves toward the village of Plats and eventually you’ll reach Simondon Farm. It’s cool and airy up here, and the views are tremendous. Whether you’re staying in one of the ancient, thick-walled cottages or on the campsite, you can make use of the heated outdoor pool and restaurant, and commune with the various chickens, sheep and donkeys that live on-site.

restaurant-gite-camping-simondon.fr

Cabanes Perchées du Safari de Peaugres

Peaugres

If you like the idea of getting up close and personal with wild animals, spend a day at the 80-hectare Safari de Peaugres, near Annonay. They have 1,300 animals from over 120 species, many of which roam right past you in enclosures you can enter. You can’t touch the monkeys, but they do have a petting zoo if that’s not close enough. Even better, you can stay the night one of 20 raised wooden cabins right above the bear and wolf compound. They’re big, solidly made, with kitchens and eating areas and plenty of playful touches. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes – one even has an extra 2-bed UFO on its terrace with a view of the stars. The biggest sleeps 12; there are also some 2-bed floor-level cabins with windows over the cheetah compound. You even get to feed them! On Fridays during the summer, they invite local winemakers to pour their wines in the grounds for guests. If you want to stay on Saturday nights or during school holidays, book well in advance.

lesnuits.safari-peaugres.com

Southern Rhône

Notre Dame de Cousignac

Bourg-Saint-Andéol

If you’re considering staying in the southern Ardèche, there are a number of reasons that make Notre Dame de Cousignac a smart choice. This working wine estate has been in the Pommier family for 7 generations; their wines, certified organic, come highly recommended. On the property they have 5 guestrooms and a separate 2-storey gîte with original stone walls and a jacuzzi. All the accommodation shares another hot tub and a pool, and there’s an on-site organic restaurant. They offer a range of activities: a wine tasting with charismatic owner Raphaël; a visit to their 6th century chapel; vineyard tours on electric bikes; not to mention massage, yoga and tai-chi. Other reliable wineries such as Domaine Bonetto-Fabrol and Domaine de Grangeneuve are a short drive away.

domainedecousignac.fr

Domaine de l’Ecluse

Bénivay-Ollon

The vineyards of the Vaucluse – the east bank of the Rhône – are naturally hemmed in by mountainous areas that aren’t as well adapted to viticulture. In 2014, 1800km² was designated the Baronnies Regional Nature Park, a beautifully wild and unspoilt place to explore. There are 2,000 plant species and 200 protected animal species including owls and vultures here; there are also countless picturesque villages to discover. Domaine de l’Ecluse is a useful base. It’s an independent campsite with an assortment of around thirty different chalets, mobile homes and gîtes depending on the size of your party of your needs. There’s a swimming pool, bar, and they invite food trucks to visit during the high season – but the village of Buis-la-Barronies isn’t far. You might be out on the edge of wine country, but some very good wineries such as Domaine Saint Apollinaire are a short drive away.

campecluse.com

Mas de l’Evajade

Beaumes-de-Venise

If you’re looking for somewhere a bit different to lay your head, how about sleeping in a huge barrel in a vineyard? Mas de l’Evajade in Beaumes de Venise have just such a thing, which contains a double bed, an optional single, a kitchen, shower, eating area, air con… everything you need for a comfortable stay. There are four additional simple gites with access to a shared open kitchen and small pool, and a large modern apartment that sleeps 8. The friendly owners are also vine growers, and will make you feel very welcome – with swings, toys and a garden to explore it’s ideal for families with young children.

evajade.fr

Domaine de la Verrière

Crestet

Lovers of Rhône wines might have come across the stylish Chêne Bleu wines; Domaine de la Verrière, situated in a UNESCO nature reserve in the Dentelles de Montmirail near Crestet, is where they are made. People have lived in this secluded spot for over 1,000 years, but when it was bought by Xavier and Nicole Rolet in 1993 it was in ruins. The renovation took nearly 12 years, and when you visit you see why it took so long – they have done an incredible job, where everything has been done with meticulous attention to detail and sustainability at heart. There are many reasons to come here – to visit the winery, to eat, or even to enrol on their Extreme Wine course, hosted by Masters of Wine. To stay is another – they have 7 rooms and suites, all in keeping with the medieval Provençal chic of the estate. It can sleep 17 in total if you hire the whole estate. You won’t want to leave. A word of advice if you’re visiting; set your satnav to the village of Crestet first, then navigate to La Verrière from there.

chenebleu.com/stay

Camping Les Rives de l’Aygues

Tulette

This tranquil campsite near the village of Tulette is on a 3.5ha site with nearly 100 spacious pitches. ‘Les Rives de l’Aygues’ means ‘the banks of the Aygues’ – the shallow Aygues river is just a short walk away, which offers endless entertainment for small children and picturesque walking. There’s a pool in the campsite itself, three play areas and a snack bar. They have a range of accommodation options for hire if you don’t want to camp, including mobile homes, chalets and permanent wood-and-canvas structures. The environmental commitments here – installing bird boxes and insect hotels, avoiding pesticides – add to feeling that you’re surrounded by nature. You’re also encircled by some of the best Côtes-du-Rhône Villages.

lesrivesdelaygues.com

Espace de l’Hers

Châteauneuf-du-Pape

If you want to stay among the vines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and a swimming pool is on your list of requirements, the Espace de l’Hers is worth considering. It’s a 14th century country house that was renovated in 2010 to create four modern guest rooms. Vineyards stretch out in all directions, so you feel very much away from the crowds. And if running is your thing, you can take the tracks that run through the vines, spotting the local wildlife as you go.

espace-de-lhers-guest-house.leprovencehotels.com

Domaine Saint-Préfert

Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Isabel Ferrando doesn’t come from a long line of winemakers, but she still felt the call of the vines. In 2002 she noticed that an old winery was up for sale, and, with the birth of her daughter Guillemette, she decided to take the plunge. Isabel’s wines have been among the best in Châteauneuf-du-Pape for many years, and she has recently renovated 2 gîtes on the property, one that sleeps four, another that sleeps six. There’s a good-sized swimming pool with views of the vineyards, and you can expect to spot plenty of birds and butterflies – the estate has been certified biodynamic since 2019. For more information call +33 (0)4 90 83 75 03 or email contact@familleferrando.com.

familleferrando.com

Le Mas des Oules

Saint-Victor-des-Oules

Le Mas des Oules is a converted farmhouse and stables just 10 minutes’ drive from the bustling town of Uzès. It’s perfect for families – all of the rooms are self-catering, there’s a large swimming pool and plenty of outdoor space – a peaceful inner courtyard and surrounding lawns and fields for playing games. There are eight rooms in total, each as its own terrace, and all are slightly different in décor – the general vibe is clean and modern. The entire mas sleeps 42 in total, and has two large reception rooms if you’re looking for somewhere to throw a party or stage an event. If you need to stock up on wine, Domaine Deleuze-Rochetin and Domaine Chabrier are both less than 30 minutes away by car.

lemasdesoules.eu

Metafort

Méthamis

At the apex of the hilltop town of Méthamis there’s a tall building; an old fortress with a long history. It was bought in 2019 by Elsa and Arnaud who transformed it into a striking design B&B that feels like a slice of rural Ibiza in the Vaucluse. The aromatic garden and swimming pool have views that plunge down into a deep wooded valley beyond where owls and vultures live. Cool off in the shared kitchen with a selection of good Ventoux wines and homemade snacks. Then chill out for a while in your beautifully designed, spacious room – each one unique, with its own spa bath. For an even more memorable stay, enquire about the garden annex or their upstairs ‘under the stars’ room with a bed on rails that pushes out onto the balcony. Highly recommended.

metafort-provence.com

Camping Fontisson

Châteauneuf de Gadagne

Not Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but Châteauneuf de Gadagne – another village producing good red wines in a bold style. Just 25 minutes’ drive (or a short train or bus ride) from Avignon, this ancient village has a couple of restaurants and wineries a walk away from the campsite. The Fontisson campsite is a wooded site on the entrance to the village, which has plenty of hedge-lined pitches for tents and mobile homes, and 9 permanent chalets for hire. Tip: the O’Phéa chalet has powerful aircon (useful to keep your wine stash cool) and vineyard views. The campsite has a pool, tennis courts and a snack bar, and they serve food most evenings during the high season.

campingfontisson.com