The solitary yet perennially worthy representative of the Médoc category, La Tour de By is as reliable and well-priced as ever; a gentleman’s claret, for all that both ‘gourmand’ and ‘facile à boire’ according to Frédéric Leclerc. And so it proves, its 35% Merlot preserved by its proximity to the Gironde, the 5% Petit Verdot bolstering the structural backdrop.