Cave de l'Ormarine, Acaciae de l’Ormarine 2020

The tiny Mediterranean appellation of Picpoul de Pinet, bounded to the north by the garrigue-scented Languedoc forest and scrubland and to the south by the oyster beds of the Bassin de Thau, is responsible for more than half the entire white wine production of the Languedoc. Iain Munson MW, the head winemaker of the huge producer Maison Jeanjean (which has a partnership with Cave de l’Ormarine), has long been interested in the ageing possibilities of Picpoul and experimented with various styles of oak before deciding acacia best expressed the fine aromatics of Picpoul Blanc. This – which he describes as his stab at a Picpoul “icon” – is aged for several months in concrete on fine lees before four months in 500l acacia barrels. It’s a splendid, profoundly juicy and savoury mouthful with a lovely saline finish (it’s irresistible with oysters). It’s complex and weighty, with fresh flavours of pear and white flowers, managing to hint at both pine-scented garrigue and the salty tang of sea-breeze. A delicious summer wine, and as an experiment (Munson has produced only 3000 bottles), a triumph.