A nose to lose yourself in – layers and layers of aroma but very restrained, each flavour (blackcurrant, cassis, ripe plum) in a lower key. From the nose, a tour de force. The palate is equally tightly-wound, giving an impression of texture more than fruit, it slips effortlessly down the throat (it’s only lunchtime). You don’t see the alcohol. St Henri sees no new oak; it spends a year in 1,460-litre vats, some of them 50 years old. I love this wine for its finesse and its authority, the fact that it’s so different to its Shiraz stablemates but it’s still so un-European. Very, very fine, it will last for decades.