I like this very much: it feels as if the wine’s character is finding equilibrium and some consistency. The rich, savoury, tar and roses nose (reminiscent of Brunello) is now a feature; there’s seamless integration, the tannins beautifully fine but with definite presence, the finish effortless, dry, bathed in juice leaving a feeling of airy freshness. Will Harlan compares its robust structure and seeming weightlessness to a cathedral: “the stone has both weight and lightness. It’s intricately carved and light filters through the windows…”