Backward aromas seem to be the hallmark of the vintage and on the Romanee-Conti (over £3000 a bottle before tax) it’s carried through to a palate which in my notes I describe as “intimate” and “calm”. Impressions of control and restraint: juicy, defined, delicate tannins producing cataracts of juice. It’s a beguiling mouthful, intense with promise of fabulous opulence to come. The mid-palate is earthy, savoury, with licorice notes and this lovely spicy fruit, bramble and aromas of hedgerow. What a treat to come.