Another Pomerol punching above its weight, Clinet’s owner Ronan Laborde was appointed Président of the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux in 2019. This 2010 is coquettish, with fresh hay and ripe strawberries, transporting me to the bucolic countryside of Thomas Hardy’s Tess of the D’Urbervilles, and then a chocolatey charm. Rounded, encompassing, like a balloon in the mouth expanding into every corner. A breath of fresh air, but not without its savoury, tobacco and undergrowth gravitas, supported by a long, accomplished tannic finish.