Forty-year-old Port Ellen is a rarity, and although a legendary whisky, not all bottles are as good as the expectations of tasting them. This, however, was very good. It was bottled by proprietor Diageo for a private client under the Casks of Distinction programme. This had sweet smoke and iodine, a metallic top note and hints of salinity, with toasted turnips on the back palate. It is complex, with fresh green apples keeping the whisky fruity as the salty flavours build across the palate.