Fine earthy, meadowy nose, at first. But there’s something the wrong side of earth here: it gives you pause, though it’s a sensation not an aroma or taste. Instead of living earth we have a hint of dry earth. The palate is bright and lifted with dark fruit, good acidity and fine soft tannins. The only thing lacking is pop: that mix of electricity and charm the French call energie. The dryness at the end is the result of this, but it will sort itself out. The wine gives the impression of holding back – the release, when it happens, will be worth noting.