I wonder if this wine’s evolution is subject to a different law of time than others’ – we’re coming to it at a point in its development that is neither early nor late: it just is. It’s very light in colour, still glowing though. There’s elegant old leather on a nose that is nevertheless vibrantly alive; the palate is shot through with berries, spiced perfume (rather exotic) and amazingly fresh acidity. Sumptuous, rounded, delicious. I can still taste it four days later.