Vielles vignes or ‘old vines’ are worth a mention on the label because those mature plants provide lower yields, so more concentration, and, a recent scientific study suggests, a greater sense of place. Chablis’ signature gunflint fires the starting gun here, supported by plump citrus, juicy greengage, a hint of grilled pineapple and judicious use of oak. A great-value dinner-party wine to pair with chicken and ham hock pie.