The late afternoon sun caresses the verdant vines cascading down the hillside of Château Pavie’s vineyard plot, its limestone cellar protruding from the earth below and taking on a rosy hue at this time of day. Further below, a chestnut draft horse ambles leisurely between the rows of vines. The estate is a Premier Grand Cru Classé ‘A’ of its AOC; the only red wine in the world to now share this ultimate distinction alongside Château-Figeac, according to the latest 2022 ranking (revised every ten years).
Welcome to the charming village of Saint-Émilion, nestled in the southwest of France and adjacent to the centre of Bordeaux. With 2,500 residents – 250 in the heart of the medieval city – and over one million tourists each year, this haven for wine connoisseurs and bons vivants alike has one of the highest tourist footfalls within the wider region. That’s the price of fame for a town classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999. Yet, it hasn’t always been this way.
According to legend, Saint-Émilion’s story began around 750AD when a monk from Brittany, named Émilion, settled in a cave that became his hermitage. He was soon joined by disciples and evangelised the population. After his death, they continued his work: a church was carved into the rocky limestone block. You can still admire this true underground sanctuary that dates back to the early 12th century and against which the Pavie hotel is nestled.
During the Middle Ages, the village developed itself around this historical cave. The Hundred Years’ War passed through Saint-Émilion, during which time the town regularly changed flags as English and French authorities fought for control of the city. And by the 16th century, the Wars of Religion weakened the medieval town, quickly reducing it to the size of a small village. The rediscovery of this fabulous terroir didn’t happen until the second half of the 18th century and into the 19th century, when legendary estates such as Château Ausone, Château Cheval Blanc and Château Angélus brought a new prosperity to the region, recognised as an Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) in 1936. With the success of these vineyards came the creation of an impressive number of hotels, guesthouses, wine shops and guided tours.
Since the pandemic, this medieval city has encouraged various renovation projects and the establishment of new businesses. The Pavie Hotel is now expanding with five new suites in the village, all nestled within an old 16th-century wine merchant’s house. Additionally, a high-quality ice cream shop is set to open up this summer on one of the most famous downtown streets, rue du Clocher, next to bistro L’Envers du Décor. Named Le Glacier, it will feature frozen creations such as basil and tomato sorbet crafted by the pastry chef of La Table de Pavie.
The dining and drinking scene in Saint-Émilion remains rooted in terroir and tradition
Saint-Émilion isn’t Bordeaux city: don’t expect disruptive cuisine following new culinary trends. Even if talented chefs like triple-starred Yannick Alléno – who wants to ‘bring Bordeaux cuisine out of its bourgeois spirit’ – have put down roots or opened up restaurants in the area, the dining and drinking scene in Saint-Émilion remains rooted in terroir and tradition.
Read on for a selection of eight top restaurants and bars in Saint-Émilion. To avoid disappointment, advance bookings are recommended, especially in the summer months.
8 top restaurants and bars in Saint-Émilion
Le Cloître des Cordeliers
2 rue de la Porte Brunet
Stroll through the serene cloister leading to the garden of a former convent. This 13th-century monastery, classified as a historical monument, has been transformed in part into an elegant wine bar. While you could indulge in a glass of the red that permeates the region, something local and sparkling is surprisingly what’s suggested here. This is where Crémant de Bordeaux is crafted, in caves stretching 3km-long and 17m underground – which are also available to explore on a guided tour. There’s a sleek multi-storey boutique adjacent to the action and offering a selection of regional products, enhancing the charm of this delightful spot.
La Table de Pavie
5 place du Clocher
Star chef Yannick Alléno took over the kitchens of the Pavie hotel in 2020. The restaurant currently holds two Michelin stars and is now aiming for its coveted third. Standout dishes on a recent visit included poached langoustine with vanilla seed, with a stew of the heads in Esprit de Pavie wine; or the roasted pigeon, with ortolan-style beak, breast with bitter sorrel jus and a walnut purée – without giving too much of a spoiler, it’s a spectacular nod to the (now-outlawed) French ritual of ortolan eating. Extensive and impressive, the wine list offers a splendid selection of the wider region’s finest appellations.
Café Saigon
21 Rue Guadet
In Saint-Émilion, anything is possible: even eating shrimp spring rolls while sipping on a Château Angélus 2010. In the heart of the village, this brilliant Asian canteen is run by a Franco-Vietnamese duo. Keep it simple with a shrimp salad, red cabbage and fresh coriander, or opt for succulent pork and mushroom dumplings. All the finest French vintages are here: Clos de la Maréchale 2016 by Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier (€165), Vosne-Romanée 2016 by Emmanuel Rouget (€500)… even La Tâche 2018 from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (€2900). They also offer wines by the glass (€5-9) and more affordable bottles, such as the Rhône Valley’s Les Tours 2016 by Emmanuel Reynaud (€38).
L’Envers du Décor
11 rue du Clocher
You can’t miss the bright-red façade of this wine bar-bistro, just a stone’s throw from the Tourist Office. On the menu at Saint-Émilion’s oldest wine bar? French market cuisine focusing on local producers. Think slow-cooked lamb shoulder or a rib of beef to share between two, plus Grand Marnier soufflé to finish. A fine wine list (with 500 references, and not just Bordeaux) offers reasonable prices, with a wide selection available by the glass. L’Envers du Décor boasts the added advantage of a lovely sunny terrace, making it the perfect spot for a leisurely lunch (and a digestif).
Sous La Robe
21 rue André Loiseau
The sommelier-owner of Sous La Robe wine bar offers impeccable guidance on French wine and Champagne, on the list here at a reasonable price. Whether you’re seated inside the rustic bar or out on its terrace, a delightful selection of cheese, foie gras, and charcuterie also awaits. Plus, the bar’s new kitchen should open soon, and artistic and musical performances are now taking place in their basement, which previously housed an underground museum.
Logis de la Cadene
3 place du Marché au Bois
Founded in 1848 and acquired since by the prestigious Château Angelus, this one-star Michelin restaurant is the oldest in Saint-Émilion. Guests are charmed by its ancient golden stonework and wisteria trained up the terrace’s pergola. Arriving in September 2023, new chef Thibaut Gamba offers refined and delicate plates, prioritising the use of local Aquitaine products to the fullest. Some of the fruit and vegetables that feature come from the estate’s farm, as does the honey. The wine list features several hundred vintages from some of the world’s finest vineyards, including the owner Château. If you want to indulge and leave the driving for tomorrow, the venue also doubles as an intimate hotel.
Les Belles Perdrix de Troplong-Mondot
Château Troplong-Mondot
Located atop a small hill (the highest point of Saint-Émilion), this one-star restaurant with sleek dining room is a must-visit. The huge bay window, stretching towards the horizon, opens onto the magnificent Troplong Mondot vineyard. Here, biodiversity is a priority, and everything is done with respect for the natural environment in mind. Chef David Charrier relies on perfectly mastered techniques and offers a hyper-local cuisine, favouring products from the estate and from rigorously selected small producers. The wine list is all about indulgence without breaking the bank.
Château Grand Barrail
Route de Libourne D243
Antique mouldings, exceptional stained-glass windows, and Oriental-style paintings at this hotel make for an effect reminiscent of the work of architect ‘Viollet Le Duc’. Built in 1902, this elegant château blends the old with contemporary design. At lunch in its restaurant, enjoy bistro-style dishes like roasted aubergine with smoked caviar, tomato sauce, and fig-infused balsamic. Dinner offers more ambitious options such as Charolais beef tenderloin with bread sauce, truffle and cabbage. You can sit in either the Art Nouveau-inspired lounge or on the beautiful terrace overlooking the estate and a sea of vines. As a bonus, the estate’s wine bar is typically open from June until September, from 5pm to 11pm.
