As you might expect from a region built on seafaring and tourism, there’s a strong drinking culture in Brittany. What’s less expected is just how disparate it is; the habits (and specialisms) change from town to town and you can’t rely on finding a particular drink everywhere. You can, however, bank on finding a good bar wherever you are, often with a true enthusiast serving.
Cider is part of the offering in Brittany, of course, although admittedly it’s not omnipresent as it is in neighbouring Normandy. For local producers, stick to the east, where the Bretagne mindset is diluted by other influences, leading to entrepreneurship and innovation. You’ll find many cider-makers there – though Brittany’s best orchard-borne alcohol is in the far west, at Le Sistrot – and good beer stops in Rennes.
A bad wine list is essentially unacceptable in France, so even casual beach bars and porch-sized tabacs will be able to offer you a decent glass of red wine but there are next to no vineyards in the region. That leaves local wine drinkers to explore further afield and, as a result, bar à vins such as Cave les Pépins will guide you through interesting bottles from all over the country and potentially even beyond.
Ultimately, the ‘best bars in Brittany’ will need to be a moveable feast according to your travel plans, the designated driver, the time of year and whether it’s warm enough to spend all day on the beach. But every place on this list is a memorable one in which to spend a chunk of your visit. Make the most of the locals’ enthusiasm for great produce and show your appreciation with a toast of yec’hed mat, the Breton for ‘cheers’.
Ten of the best Brittany bars to visit
Le Sistrot
Quimper
The history-rich capital of Brittany is home to this surprisingly modern mecca for cider drinkers. It’s as much a restaurant as it is a bar, and the hearty menu is absolutely worth investigating, but it’s drinking rather than eating that is an absolute must in Le Sistrot. The drinks list offers around 80 apple- and pear-based alcoholic drinks; plenty of French stuff, of course, but also global specialities such as syrupy Quebecois ice cider and Kremmig, a cream liqueur made from Breton cider brandy. Let the knowledgeable staff guide you to a glass of something sparkling – as funky as you fancy – before you get deep into the world of orchard-derived brews.
Le Quartaut
Pléneuf-Val-André
Brittany-born sommelier Clément Pavy has transformed a classic seaside Breton building – previously a crèperie, of course – into a wine shop with benefits. The bottle selection celebrates organic, biodynamic and natural wines in particular, but you’ll also find niche beers, and unusual spirits, too; corn-based whisky made in Finistère might whet your palate. During the warm half of the year their bistro serves elegant veg-led small plates (plus the usual charcuterie, pâté, cheese et al) but you’ll find something to nibble on all year round. Le Quartaut’s main aim is for you to feel as excited about a couple making natural wines the regenerative way in the Loire or an organic Poulsard from the Côtes du Jura as they do. If stocking a few salty bar snacks through winter aids that, it’s no trouble at all.
https://www.pleneufvalandretourisme.fr/en/sit/le-quartaut-orgbre022v53llpu/
Bar L’Aviso
Saint Malo
If pirates were still a legitimate subcult in northern France, they’d spend their galleons at Bar L’Aviso. This drinking hole loiters just off Saint Malo’s pretty streets with little more than its ship-in-a-bottle signage to give it away during the daytime. At 6pm, when its doors open, it’s a friendly local with an enthusiasm for strong beers, by closing time it’s basically a lock-in. You’re not obliged to try the cactus shots, though, or even the lethal cognac-laced cocktails; it’s the beers we’re here for. Warm up with a glassful of malty local amber Le Chat-Malo before investigating Trappist treasures and Breton blondes.
Hibou Grand Duc
Rennes
An enormous wooden owl’s face watches over the drinkers in this welcoming craft beer bar, where enthusiastic service and a tempting menu of beer-friendly small plates will help you to stay for several. L’Hibou has seven keg lines, a few of which will be pouring modern IPAs and perhaps a Bohemian Pilsner from local microbrewery Smash. The wine selection is modest but well-chosen (and includes a few easy-drinking Chilean reds, should you fancy a juicy break from the French stuff), and the cocktails are classics. Expect a fun crowd to gather on the terrace on summer evenings, and check the events calendar for regular live music and even occasional Mario Kart tournaments.
Villa Margaret
Larmor-Plage
The French believe this is a pub, which says a lot about how many pubs they’ve been into; Villa Margaret – a belle epoque building that’s borderline stately home – is far more glamorous than many (if not most) British cocktail bars. It’s a great bet for a cold pint, though, and its front lawn manages to pack in seating for dozens of drinkers while still maintaining a louche vibe, helped along by the efficient but largely indifferent staff. Once the port starts to empty of its elegant sailing boats, head inside and have a nightcap in the Villa’s stunning front room. The baby grand, shrimp sculpture and leather armchairs combine to create the feel that you’ve found a secret room at a surrealist house party.
Breton beaches pull the crowds, but beer obsessives should look inland to further explore the local beer selection
Cave Les Pepins
Erdeven
Natural wine is the cool choice even in this largely old-school corner of France, and Les Pepins proves it. The owner is as passionate about his wares as he is trendy (prepare to envy his excellent collection of vintage jackets) and any of the cellar’s bottles can be cracked open for a sunny drink on their grassy terrace. Perhaps a light, berry-laden unfiltered grenache from Domaine Le Bout du Monde in the Hautes-Pyrénées. Locally made saucisson and/or well thought out cheeseboards are also on offer, and there are often food pop-ups for when you decide it’s necessary to open a second bottle.
Bar Le Brécilien
Paimpont
Breton beaches pull the crowds, but beer obsessives should look inland to further explore the local beer selection. Le Brécilien is a longstanding favourite – with locals and visitors alike – in a quaint stone-built town at the heart of Brocéliande forest. With their excellent selection of Breton beers (primarily from nearby Lancelot brewery, whose triple-hopped Duchess Anne is recommended to those who like a punchy pint), cheerful staff and full line-up of live music, it’s a joyful place to spend your weekends.
Chez Rollais
Saint-Brieuc
The shelves laden with bric-a-brac and the rickety wooden bar stools that have the distinctive shine that comes from being weathered by decades of drinkers’ corduroys instantly reveal that this is a traditional French bar with as much character as a Molière compendium. As you would expect, the wine list is short and excellent value at hardly more than 4E per glass. The food is no-frills – rillettes, saucisson, cheese – and all the more satisfying for it. Just keep it away from Rollais himself, the bar’s black cat.
Le Café de la Cale
Combrit
Ticking all the Brittany boxes is this laid-back bistro overlooking the Porte de Sainte-Marine, best reached by water taxi or ferry from nearby Bénodet. The drinks list offers all the classics, served with panache; no wonder the atmosphere warms up from coffee o’clock and remains fun until closing. It’s a destination thanks in particular to its seafood-focused menu, so start with a platter of oysters and an Aperol spritz and keep ordering until the sunset spills pink over the sparkling harbour.
Amrok
Rennes
A concrete forecourt and unashamed obsession with craft beer put this taproom-style bar in complete contrast to the other establishments on this list (and most of the bars in Brittany), but their commitment to hops should be celebrated. A selection of over 200 cans and bottles for taking away or drinking in includes experimental wild ferments from Loire-based microbrewery Aerofab as well as the best local IPAs and Triples, of course. There are ten draught lines as well as natural wines on the bar, and they screen football matches on a projector outside – whether that’s a pro or a con is for you to decide.
