Styrian stars: Austrian Sauvignon Blanc shines brightly

‘Aside from the many different soil profiles that are responsible for wines with distinct personalities, the character of Styrian Sauvignon Blanc is best explained by the climate,’ says Dirceu Vianna Junior MW, who led the IWSC’s Global Judging of Austrian wines in Styria. ‘There is a cold air that sets in at night, helping the fruit to retain freshness, while intense sunlight bathes the vineyards during the day, which is magnified by the fact that vines are often planted on very steep slopes, giving a unique character that can be expressed in just one word: intensity.’

Freddy Bulmer, Austrian buyer for The Wine Society, was among the team of international judges who immersed themselves in the region. He was impressed by the approach to the variety: ‘It is fortuitous that Sauvignon Blanc found its way to Styria because it’s not an especially important historical grape for the region but is clearly very well suited to it, with a drawn-out growing season allowing the phenolic ripeness to properly develop, meaning everything comes together very neatly, without feeling disjointed.

‘We all have a clear picture of what makes a New Zealand Sauvignon or an example from the Loire but Styria offers something different: for me, the best examples are more restrained aromatically, so here it’s all about texture, with a bit more fullness and a lovely mouthfeel, balanced by Austria’s hallmark acidity, which keeps everything tight, focused and fresh. The best examples also have a remarkable capacity to handle oak, and I say that as someone who is very particular about oak in white wines. I have been struck by just how serious the wines are here.’

Sauvignon Blanc is one of the world’s most ubiquitous and recognisable grapes but Junior believes that, despite its obvious popularity with consumers, it is also easily misunderstood: ‘The differences between countries and regions are often underestimated because Sauvignon Blanc typically displays a more powerful and pungent aromatic profile; the subtleties of terroir can sometimes be obscured by the abundance of fruit, however the differences promoted by different soil structures and climatic conditions are evident. We often speak about the ability of Riesling or Chardonnay to act as a vehicle for terroir but do not consider Sauvignon Blanc, which can do a great job if producers treat the variety well in the vineyard and don’t overwork it in the winery. Styrian Sauvignon can also age gracefully and offer another dimension in terms of texture and complexity, the wines capable of surprising those who don’t consider Sauvignon age-worthy.’

Bulmer agrees that Styrian Sauvignon is well placed to challenge vinous prejudice: ‘A lot of people have been put off the variety in recent years because certain countries have produced examples that are just a bit OTT but the reality is that not all Sauvignon Blanc tastes the same. So I would say try a Styrian example because it is that bit more serious, certainly not a style you would find from anywhere else, with the body and intensity to deliver a wine that’s gastronomic.’

With its high proportion of family wineries tending small vineyards and impressive emphasis on sustainability, Austria is rarely represented on the cheaper shelves and Styria is no exception, with most examples of its Sauvignon Blanc sitting at a price point closer to Sancerre than Marlborough, something Junior believes is justified by the ratio of price to quality: ‘Unforgiving steep slopes forces all the work to be done by hand, so those labour costs and lower yields contribute to higher prices. Having said that, the wines deliver excellent intensity, harmony and concentration of fruit, so they are worth the money. In the UK market, I see Styrian Sauvignon Blanc being best suited to the premium hospitality sector, as well as independent retailers.’

Though Sauvignon Blanc has grown its presence in Austria over recent decades, it remains a relative minnow when compared with the country’s undisputed signature grape, Grüner Veltliner, which covers eight times as much vineyard area. However, at this year’s IWSC judging, Sauvignon overtook Grüner to win the highest number of top awards. So, what makes a gold medal winner? ‘What defines the most successful examples of Sauvignon Blanc is ambition. When you taste a gold-medal-winning wine, it’s evident that the producer worked diligently all year around, tending vines, reducing yield and striving to capture the exceptional fruit that this breathtakingly beautiful terroir gives,’ he says.