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A century of celebrating the wines of Valpolicella

As the Consorzio per la Tutela dei Vini Valpolicella reaches its 100th anniversary, Jacopo Mazzeo investigates what makes Amarone, the region's most prized wine, so collectable and hears how UNESCO recognition for the appassimento process could be on the way

Words by Jacopo Mazzeo In partnership with Consorzio per la Tutela dei Vini Valpolicella

Valpolicella
The hills of Valpolicella surround Verona, a city conveniently located for tourists between Milan and Venice

Founded in 1925, the Consorzio per la Tutela dei Vini Valpolicella has been dedicated to supporting winemakers and safeguarding the wines made in one of the world’s most renowned regions for viticulture. In celebrating its centenary this year, one can review a 100-year history in which the Consorzio has cultivated a connection with both the wineries and the picturesque Valpolicella region, known for the rolling hills that surround the city of Verona. In that time, the Consorzio has also borne witness to the remarkable story of Amarone, the region’s most celebrated wine.

Amarone is a wine like no other. As Christian Marchesini, president of the Consorzio, says, ‘Valpolicella is a land of tradition, passion and commitment, and Amarone is its most authentic symbol.’ From its origins in the 1930s to Amarone della Valpolicella’s recognition as a DOC in 1990, a DOCG in 2010, up to today, it has consistently been regarded as a fine wine.

Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG
The sloping hills of Valpolicella are intrinsically linked with Amarone

A key feature that sets Amarone apart from all other wines, both Italian and international, is the use of the appassimento process. Various methods of drying grapes are used to produce sweet liquids worldwide, yet in the case of Amarone, this technique is uniquely applied to create a dry wine. In fact, it is this distinct characteristic that gives Amarone its name (Amarone means ‘very bitter’), which distinguishes it from its noble and ancient sweet counterpart, Recioto.

 

The appassimento process

In Amarone’s appassimento method, the grapes – mainly indigenous species like Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, and Molinara, along with some other minor local varieties – are dried before vinification.

After selection, the grapes are arranged on wooden racks called arele, which are set up in specially designed, well-ventilated structures known as fruttai. These spaces ensure optimal air circulation, aiding the dehydration process while maintaining the quality of the grapes. Depending on tradition and the method used, the grapes may also be placed on crates or wooden trays. The drying process lasts between 90 and 100 days – from harvest until December – during which the berries lose much of their water content.

Appassimento demands ideal environmental conditions. During the process, the grapes must be kept at a cool, consistent temperature of around 10°-15°C with low humidity to avoid the occurrence of mould or rot: the air needs to be dry and free-flowing to effectively remove excess moisture without damaging the quality of the fruit.

 

UNESCO recognition

The gradual evaporation of water from the berries has a dual benefit for the final wine, as it contributes to Amarone’s distinctive character. Not only does the appassimento process promote the development of more complex organoleptic compounds, resulting in richer aromas and flavours in the finished wine, it also concentrates sugars, acids, and polyphenols in the berries. This concentration contributes to a fuller, more powerful structure in the liquid.

The high sugar content in the must also necessitates a lengthy fermentation that further enhances the wine’s complexity. As Marchesini says while considering its centenary, the Consorzio has always worked ‘to protect and promote our wine heritage’ and that means that ‘today, more than ever, we are aware of the responsibility we have to preserve and enhance the appassimento process, a practice that has made our region unique in the world.’

Amarone

Given the central role of the appassimento process in producing such an unparalleled wine, the Consorzio has recently submitted a request to UNESCO for the method to be added to its List of Intangible Cultural Heritage. This recognition would play a crucial role in protecting and preserving this vital element of the world’s wine heritage for future generations.

‘Inclusion of Valpolicella and its appassimento process on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list would be an extraordinary recognition that not only celebrates our wine but also the culture that has made it great,’ says Marchesini. ‘It is a crucial step for our community, the future of our territory, and to ensure that future generations can continue to enjoy the extraordinary richness that Amarone offers us.’

 

A highly collectable wine

The unique nature of Amarone, resulting from the combination of vineyards ideally suited to viticulture, native grape varieties perfectly adapted to the land and the appassimento method itself, has made it a highly collectible wine throughout its life. Despite the excellent diversity of interpretations from different producers, Amarone is indeed intrinsically suited to long ageing, with its tannic structure, silky texture and acidity all contributing to its ability to endure extended cellaring.

In addition to the qualities of the liquid itself, Amarone possesses other characteristics that make it especially desirable for wine lovers. Many Amarone wines consistently earn high scores from critics, yet remain relatively affordable compared to other highly collectible bottles. Moreover, the use of the appassimento method arguably enhances Amarone’s terroir expression, as both the vineyards and the specific environment in which the grapes are dried play a significant role in shaping the profile of each vintage.

Recent decades have seen the integration of modern production techniques, with an increasing focus on grape selection, the refinement of the appassimento process and the adoption of sophisticated winemaking practices

While always staying true to its soul, the most prized wine of the Valpolicella has gradually evolved with the times. Recent decades have seen the integration of modern production techniques, with an increasing focus on grape selection, the refinement of the appassimento process and the adoption of sophisticated winemaking practices. These advancements have all contributed to the continuous improvement and refinement of the wines. Winemakers have also increasingly focused on expressing freshness, balance and greater elegance in their products. This has resulted in a more refined Amarone, yet one that retains its distinctive personality and authenticity: a nuanced wine that is at the same time fine and gentle, as well as complex and cellar-worthy. As Marchesini puts it, ‘Amarone represents the perfect balance between innovation and tradition, a wine that tells the story of generations of winemakers.’

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