What’s the difference between grande marque, own-label and grower Champagne brands?

Grande Marques Brands

Responsible for almost 90 percent of exports, one of the key points of difference for Champagne is the dominance of the so-called ‘grande marques’. The term (literally meaning ‘big brands’) is not a technical one, with most of the big names actually balking at its use, fearing it diminishes the product’s cherished premium status.

“It is not especially meaningful,” says Nick Baker, founder of specialist retailer the Finest Bubble. “But Champagne is the most branded part of the wine sector, so it is a very significant term nonetheless, even if it’s not directly relatable for most consumers.”

Of the big names, Lanson was awarded a coveted IWSC trophy for its 2002 Noble Cuvée, the judges singling out its “beautiful evolution”, “superb structure”, “marked mineral acidity” and “long complex finish.”

Maison Mumm also stood out, with a gold medal for its RSRV Cuvée Lalou, Brut Grand Cru 2006, which was praised for its “generous, indulgent palate”, “delightful maturity” and “finely etched perfection.”

Private Label brands

Champagne has long been revered by retailers for its ability to lure shoppers. It is often sold at a low margin, or even as a loss-leader, the assumption being that the pursuit of bargain bubbles will also lead to a spending spree in store.

So-called “private label” (or “own label”) normally destined for a supermarket’s premium range, is mostly catered for by large-scale co-operative wineries, although some established houses also provide smaller bespoke brands for the restaurant trade or select cuvées for luxury goods retailers.

“I thought private label was generally impressive this year,” says Field of the 2020 IWSC judging. “I was a buyer for 20 years, responsible for sourcing own label, so I know the amount of work that goes into it. The consumer is not getting short-changed one bit. Own label, when done properly, is far from a cynical means of disposing of wines you can’t sell elsewhere.”

Among the own labels, Waitrose burnished its upmarket credentials with a trophy for its Special Reserve Brut 2008, commended for its “elegant, glittering ostentatious”, “youthful mouthfeel” and “poise and potential.”

Grower Champagne

Although not a new phenomenon, so-called ‘Grower Champagne’ has popped into the wider public consciousness in recent years, as curious consumers have become more interested in the provenance and traceability of what they eat and drink.

There are more than 15,000 growers in Champagne, between them owning around 90 percent of the vineyards, yet most sell their grapes to the big houses or co-operatives, through long-term contracts. Grower Champagne sees producers making Champagne from their own grapes, instead of selling them, allowing them to retain control of the whole process from vineyard to finished bottle.

“Historically, Champagne was about covering the entire region with your sourcing,” says Field. “But as the growers gained in confidence and vintages became more reliable, site-specific became a virtue rather than a negative, so grower Champagne has in turn become more desirable”.

Of the family growers represented at the 2020 IWSC 2020, Allouchery Perserval was among those to shine, picking up six silver medals. Its La Réserve non-vintage was typical in being described by judges as boasting “stupendous layers of white, yellow and red fruits, all wrapped up in a firmly elegant style”.

Though the foibles of fashion may have played a part in the success of grower Champagne, it is more readily defined by its terroir than other bottlings, and arguably that sense of place remains critical to all good Champagne, whether the producer is big or small.

“By their very nature, growers are often dealing with small plots of few hectares,” says Baker, “the only difference with a larger house is that it’s from a collection of small plots. Terroir exists whether it comes from a grande marque or a grower Champagne.”

Ten champion Champagnes from this year’s IWSC