One of the pioneers of the concept is Demière, whose original perpetual reserve was initiated in 1978. Even today, it is used to craft the 100% Meunier cuvée Solera 23, although they call it ‘non-perpetual’ reserve, as production is limited to the fine harvest years. To further play with the concept, Demière established a new – this time truly ‘perpetual’ – reserve in 2015, going even further in 2018 with the introduction of a real three-tier oak barrel solera. But we will still need to wait before the Champagnes incorporating these perpetual reserves get to see the light of day.

Read more: The Grower Champagne Report 2024

The use of a perpetual reserve is increasingly popular among the more experimental producers within the grower Champagne movement; and this way of storing reserve wines especially makes sense for small producers whose production volumes won’t allow storing singular reserve wines in large quantities. The perpetual approach in larger vessels may help preserve freshness in the blend. But perpetual reserves come with their own risks: if not properly maintained, they tend to produce aldehydic aromas (nutty or bruised apple aromas suggestive of oxidation). ‘The older, the better’ might not be the golden rule here.

Jacques Selosse’s 1986-founded perpetual reserve for cuvée Substance must be Champagne’s most famous, but even older examples, such as Huré Frères’ and Vazart-Coquart’s 1982-initiated perpetual reserves, are still in existence. R. Pouillon carefully nurtures a 1997-initiated Mareuil-sur-Aÿ ‘solera’ but makes sure to draw a good 30% out of it each year to ensure it maintains a degree of freshness.

Many newly established wineries also trust a perpetual concept for reserve wines as they haven’t had the time to build a reserve wine library. The technique is the way forward for Stéphane Regnault, who maintains separate perpetual reserves for different cuvées. For example, cuvée Mixolydien originates on the mid-slope Oger plot of Le Moulin. For the current release, the base is 2017 with 40% of wine added from a perpetual reserve between 2014 and 2016. Hence, Regnault gives the cuvée the number 62 (17+16+15+14).

As beautifully simple yet multifaceted as the concept might be, it comes with limitations. Even if the perpetual reserve hosts a great complexity of base wines, at the end of the day it is just one wine. Thus, the winemaker’s hands are tied when it comes to finetuning the blend. For the finest results, they are often best combined with individual reserve wines at the blending stage. Also, lesser vintages included in the reserve may weaken its age worthiness. In the current climatic era, reserve wines are increasingly called upon for the invigorating qualities they can bring to the blend – the resultant Champagne may become heavy if not properly refreshed with newer base wines.

 

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Even with their risks and limitations, there is magic to the best perpetual reserve cuvées. I nurture the concept of perpetual reserves in Champagne, seeing their use as the bridging of the work of several generations of winemakers. To me, these bottles are like liquid history books.