Read more: THE ROSÉ WINE REPORT

With such prolific production around the world, it is easy to forget that Grenache is an indigenous variety of southern Europe. In Tavel, it must make up 70% of the blend (although, it can be black, grey or white Grenache). It is also the major variety of the Navarre rosés in northern Spain and in nearby Rioja, where it is often blended with Tempranillo and the white variety Viura. It even surfaces in Umbria where it is historically known as Gamay di Trasimeno.

So what can be said of the indigenous grapes that form the backbone of rosé in other parts of the world? The best rosés made with indigenous varieties are creating exciting new styles for the wine category, expressing varietal character rather than trying to be a Provence imitation. With varieties better known for their red wines, such as Sangiovese, it can be an exploration of discovery to find out how these grapes express themselves as a rosé.

For many winemakers, it’s not just an activity of experimentation, though. The impact of changing climate patterns has led some producers to shift their grapes from red to rosé winemaking. Lake Garda in northern Italy has battled with the erratic weather conditions of the nearby mountains, producing reds only in good years. As a result, the fresher climate has proven to be perfect for Chiaretto rosés. Gropello, the main variety of Chiaretto of Valtenesi, gives a soft red fruit or strawberry character. The region’s Costaripa Winery also includes the rarer Marzemino grape (praised by Mozart in his opera Don Giovanni), which contributes some darker structure. Meanwhile, Chiaretto di Bardolino is made on the eastern shore and is based on Corvina with its sour-cherry crunchiness. Aglianico, known for its big powerful reds, is also proving to make some interesting rosés, many being full-bodied and gutsy in style – but higher altitude plantings of the variety lead to a fresher wine.

Similarly, in the Douro, grapes from cooler vineyards were the least sought-after by port winemakers, but producers have discovered that local varieties Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Cao from these fresher sites make beautifully elegant and fresh mineral rosés. Or there’s Xinomavro in northern Greece, which has all the finesse of a fine Pinot Noir, and is also producing elegant rosés from cooler sites.

For others, though, this voyage into indigenous rosé is more a case of showing pride in the local varieties – from Obaideh and Merwah in Lebanon to Croatina in northern Italy and Ramisco in Portugal – with producers keen to create unique, modern interpretations from historic grapes, albeit in tiny volumes. When compiling The Rosé Wine Report, those wines that showed unique varietal character certainly stood out from a crowd of pale-pink homogeneity.