One of the best and most consistent overall ranges was from Aurelien Suenen, whose carefully crafted and harmonious wines keep increasing in precision vintage by vintage; this time Suenen’s La Mont-Aigu Chouilly Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru 2016 was the star. When looking at value for money, there are few better purchases than Les Fréres Mignon’s radiantly fruity L’Aventure Blanc de Blancs NV, Leclerc-Thiefaine’s complex Le Grand Cru d’Avize NV, or the Pierre Gimonnet classic, Cuis 1er Cru.

South from the Côte des Blancs, Coteaux du Petit Morin has emerged on the Champagne map thanks to the impeccable production and cult reputation of Ulysse Collin. Olivier Collin’s perfectionist nature has made his single-vineyard Congy Chardonnays, ‘Les Enfers’ and ‘Les Roises’, true grower Champagne icons.

Read more: The Grower Champagne Report 2023

Continuing further south to the Sézannais, a region where Chardonnay appears richer and more supple, we find great addresses for value for money finds. Take a look at the finely crafted terroir-cuvées of Marie Copinet, Nos Pas Dans la Craie NV and Au Détour du Sézannais NV. Also, seekers of organically certified Champagne will be pleased with the refined Les Margannes NV and Fleur de Craie NV of Barrat-Masson.

As this report shows, the potential of blanc de blancs in the Montagne de Reims, typically famed for its Pinot Noir, should not be overlooked. In the east-facing village of Villers-Marmery, a Chardonnay haven amid Pinot Noir land, Arnaud Margaine’s meticulously crafted wines never disappoint. The house’s pure and beautifully structured Extra Brut NV over-delivers on value for money. The same is true of Henriet-Bazin’s beautifully transparent Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Extra Brut NV.

I found several outstanding Chardonnays grown on more classic Pinot Noir terroirs. On the north side of the hill, Chigny-les-Roses’ praised lieu-dit ‘Les Blanches Voies’ grew the grapes for both top-performing cuvées Vilmart & Cie Blanc de Blancs 2012 and Huré Frères 4 Éléments Chardonnay 2017. It is also worth getting to know R. Pouillon’s monumental Les Valnons Grand Cru 2016 from Aÿ and Marc Hebrart’s fine monopole cuvée from the ‘Le Léon’ plot in Dizy. In Massif de Saint-Thierry’s sandier terrains, Chartogne-Taillet crafts two immaculate blanc de blancs, Heurtebise and Chemin de Reims, that conquered some of the very top positions in the report.

There are few pure Chardonnays from deeper down the Vallée de la Marne that stood out. Moussé Fils L’Anecdote 2019 from Cuisles and Jonquery is a fine curiosity by a Meunier man. José Michel’s Clos Saint Jean Blanc de Blancs from Saint-Agnan is beautifully vibrant and saline. The non-vintage blanc de blancs also proved a great value option.

Last but not least, we have the wines of the Aube. Starting with Montgueux, I was happy to see some competition emerge on this magnificent hillside, best known for the individualistic wines of Jacques Lassaigne. Hélène Beaugrand started her family domaine as recently as 2018. And from her first harvest year, we can already enjoy the Au Cœur des Racines and Derrière la Cabane NV, both expressive of the lush and exotic Montgueux fruit. Further south in the Côte des Bar, Rémy Massin & Fils perpetual reserve L’Inattendue NV pleased me with its meticulous crafting and friendly price tag.