Coming on like a white Burgundy, Zephyr from ex Wither Hills’ Ben Glover in Marlborough, this ‘feral fermentation’ (i.e. wild yeast) Kiwi Chardonnay, with distinctive notes of toasty oak and nutty lees-stirring, fills the nostrils before seducing the tongue with an array of butterscotch-like and nutty flavours and a fruit quality that’s exuberantly ripe, before settling down with a citrusy backbone for freshness and length. Classy and great value.