Such is its popularity, there’s plenty of Albariño on the market, but you need to choose carefully if you’re after authenticity. Martín Códax is actually a co-operative of more than 50 family producers across the Rías Baíxas and this is a textbook Albariño, with a nose like a seaside walk on a blustery day, with salty freshness, plump orchard fruits, rounded texture from lees ageing, and a gentle, lingering, saline finish. One for dressed crab and toasted sourdough.