Aligoté is Burgundy’s ‘Cinderella grape’ sitting in the shadow of Chardonnay, but despite its lower profile, it is now riding the wave of interest in the region’s wines, thanks in part to the fashion for fresher styles. From winemaker, Céline Brocard Gueguen, who has a Chablis pedigree, there’s zesty citrus and honeysuckle, with plenty of intensity and a waxy, faintly nutty texture, making it a versatile summer salad partner.