A distinctive green flute, if not German, can only mean Torres Esmeralda or – in a completely different league – the Monople Clasico, the original and far from usual 1915 style reintroduced. That is to say it’s vinified Viura blended with 15% of Manzanilla sherry, courtesy of two butts from Bodegas Hidalgo in Sanlucar. Not to everyone’s taste, perhaps, but it certainly is to mine; chamomile, almonds, yeast and late orchard citrus fruit; intimations of oxidation, old-school, but the shard of flinty acidity provides instant redemption and extraordinary satisfaction.