Bright and vibrantly fresh – you can almost see it shimmering in the glass. The older vintages (we’ve just had the 96) have flavours of membrillo, and the fruit here shows how it would have been: crunchy pear and orchard fruit, and superb dryness at the end which is washed over with juice. This is a very young wine with class and dignity, utterly delicious now with decades ahead of it.