Château Climens, Asphodèle 2019

Château Climens in Barsac is already renowned for the honeyed elegance of its sweet white wine; now owner Bérénice Lurton has embarked on a project she’s had in mind for some time: a dry white wine. As a flower the asphodèle is as hardy as it is delicate; the first plant to appear after a fire, it’s treasured as a symbol of regeneration – which is why Lurton chose the name for her first dry wine. “After the devastating frost of 2017 which destroyed our entire harvest, the Asphodèle project breathed new life into Climens,” she said. Made from 100% Semillon with indigenous yeast, aged on lees entirely without oak, this 2019 has restrained aromas of white flowers, white pepper, lip-smacking acidity and fine citrussy salinity which gives it really lovely freshness. It’s bone-dry in the true gastronomic style (I’d love it with huge grilled prawns) with a wash of juice at the end. Delicious, and as Lurton refines the style it will sing.