Hailing from Piedmont, Timorasso is one of Italy’s best kept secrets: a spellbinding variety with bags of ripe peachiness and fascinating herbal complexity. The variety, which almost vanished, can be heady in the wrong hands but this example, from a pioneering producer who’s worked tirelessly to put it back on the wine map, has bright acidity to balance the plump stone fruit, so it’s a good one for spaghetti vongole.