The Loire is doing very well with sales of crémant but this is a Saumur, so it’s similar but different due to a separate set of rules. Majority Chenin Blanc with 15% Chardonnay from one of the most famous sparkling producers outside Champagne, this traditional method extra brut spends a minimum of three years on its lees (spent yeast cells), affording it depth and finesse. There’s a consistent green apple character from nose to tail, supported by a flinty mineral freshness that’s like a revitalising cold shower, so pair this with something oily such as smoked salmon.