Most sherries come from the sherry triangle centred around the town of Jerez itself, but a handful are made in the DO of Montilla-Morilles, which lies some 110km inland from Malaga. This fino is made from a 12-year-old solera of unfortified Pedro Ximenez grapes. There’s real depth of character on the palate, with flavours of Marmite, nuts, honey and mushrooms, and the lack of fortification results in a sense of freshness and finesse.