A veritable Pomerol gem, “VCC” as it’s known, has an inviting nose of concentrated ripe red fruit, with a touch of 2010 spice that seems to be a signature of the vintage across Bordeaux. The wine is voluptuous, polished, and perfectly in proportion in the mouth. It captures everything generous about 2010 and combines it in a harmonious whole. Again, very hard not to swallow – it has a certain restraint and is immensely appetising. When VCC is good it is very, very good. Lovely, lingering, lyrical. Made by Alexandre, one of several prominent Thienpont cousins, a Belgian family now as embedded on Bordeaux’s right bank as any Bordelais.