Pascal Agrapart is one of Champagne’s most celebrated wine growers, and his top wine, Vénus, is a pure Chardonnay from the vineyard of La Fosse in Avize, which he ploughs entirely by horse rather than tractor. It’s a racy, energetic Champagne, driven by its salty, briny chalkiness, and it unfolds on the palate with stunning complexity, grace and length. While 2010 was not the easiest vintage in Champagne, Agrapart demonstrates what can be achieved with conscientious viticulture and top-class winemaking.