An extraordinarily savoury nose with a whiff of ozone promising bracing salinity to come. There’s so much going on here – the palate is intense and fresh but so much more open (as if aerated) than the Brut Gold. On the nose there is salt and sea air, underripe pear and crab apple, and hazelnut. The palate is supple, round and sweet with lovely peachy flavours set off by excellent minerality. Excellent.

Price per bottle.