Mario Rotllant, who founded Roda in the mid-1980s, used methods that are commonplace now but were considered radical 35 years ago – reduce yields, use only natural yeast, take infinite pains with the winemaking. Winemaker Agustin Santolaya separates vintages into “Mediterranean” and “Atlantic”, depending on the season’s influence. The 2015 is the former: warm, generous and perfumed with spice; plum and damson on the palate, the acidity fresh and the tannins delicate. Lovely concentrated finish. Ready to drink now but (as I’ve seen from tasting decades-old Roda) it will mature for years.