Turkey offers a treasure trove of ancient grape varieties, some of them teetering on the verge of extinction, so we should applaud winemaker, Yaban Kolektif, who works with small-scale growers to preserve the country’s gems, including this Erçis Karasi, grown ungrafted at an altitude of 1,770m close to Lake Van. Elegant and perfumed, ethereal yet precise, with delicate red fruit, a finely framed wine that would be elevated by a gentle chill.