Wynns Coonawarra Estate, John Riddoch Limited Release Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

John Riddoch is one of the legendary figures of Australian wine. It was he who in the 1890s recognised the terra rossa – that narrow strip of red soil in remote Coonawarra – as a marvel of fertility, and who built the three-gabled winery whose woodcut image is one of the world’s most revered wine labels. Riddoch wanted to make Coonawarra famous for its wine but his dream faltered; the winery was on the point of being sold as a sheep-shearing shed before it was bought by Samuel and David Wynn in 1951, and Wynns Coonawarra Estate was founded. The 1982 was the first John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon, made from only the finest parcels from Wynns’ 500ha in Coonawarra, in the best vintages. This 2018 (an excellent vintage with a warm summer followed by a long, cool ripening period) made by veteran winemaker Sue Hodder (who is approaching her 30th anniversary with the winery) has a lovely peppery nose and juicy, opulent, mint-spiced dark berry fruit with a mouthwatering saline touch. The tannins are notably fine for such a robust, magisterial wine, the acidity bringing on a refreshing juicy finish. Balanced, luscious, fresh.  15 months in French barriques and hogsheads. 35% new, remainder 2-3 year old barrels. Drinkable now of course but it has years ahead of it.