Infanticide, I hear you shriek. Quite so, but let’s have a look. The usual Parisian perfume (violets, incense, peony – you name it) is a little subdued, unsurprisingly, but the qualitative hallmarks are writ large on the palate. This is a broad-shouldered wine, widow black and with a dense nose of raspberry compote, Assam tea leaf and gunpowder. The tannins are more assertive than in some, yet it is in no sense drying or rustic. They assert without too much by way of stentorian aggression and will continue to do so over the next decade. Most impressive is the sheer concentration, thanks in part to the vintage, no doubt, but mainly down to the supreme quality of the site, surely one of the very best in the northern Rhône.