Now we’re getting into the modern era (Warren Winiarski sold the winery to Ste Michelle and Antinori in July 2007). There’s a new weight to this wine (it has an international polish); it’s fresh and dense and intense, full of life, sweet dark fruit & spice and lovely juicy tannic length. It perhaps has a certain astringency which you might feel unbalances it (winemaker Marcus Notaro sees “a bit of band-aid, some brett”) and it certainly seems to be pretty ripe for its age, but still you finish the mouthful with a fine wash of juice.