If there is one wine I would remortgage my house for, the 2013 is it. The nose gives little away at first, but gradually rose-petal perfume comes through with an undertow of blackcurrant and mint. It’s dramatically young and coiled on the palate; the tannins are tight; the fruit is dark and concentrated and buried but with such potential to break through. This is going to be delicious in five years, and by the end of the ’20s it will be hitting its stride. By the middle of the century it will be a velvet-toned, perfumed classic, still with years of fine old age ahead of it. A triumphant wine.