Really full, savoury, meaty nose with hints of herb. Pleasingly dry on the palate, good dark-red fruit – still crunchy but the tannins are making themselves felt, softening the fruit and adding perfume and a powerful, precise grip. The acidity carries the whole thing along. Intense and concentrated, this is a wine for robust dishes; indeed, its only role should be as part of a meal, which doesn’t in the least detract from its charms.