Red wine

Penfolds, Magill Estate Shiraz 2017

RRP £136

The nose is cream and tar, and just-picked rose petals. This is all muscle compared to St Henri’s litheness – a brutal dense tannin-bolstered mouthful that leaves one breathless. But is there an end palate missing? The blackcurrant jam-bedecked tannins at the end bespeak a long length – it’s there but it needs to come through. At the moment it’s all balloons and jam spoons. Very hard to read. Gago – “there are Magills I like more”.