The flagship of the Colombo estate, a steep south-facing vineyard with eagles, apparently, circling above the mizzen. Only four barrels of this have been made, with one third new oak. This is the quintessentially modern Cornas, deep in colour and dark in intent. Squidink black and with an aromatic profile that marries blackcurrant pastille and graphite, the wine unfurls with dignity: rich yet not overbearing, and its tannins suitably ripe in deference to the hot summer but in no way compromised. There is a lick of black pepper and even hints of gum cistus and bacon rind behind the resplendent fruit. Time, please, gentlemen – please give this wine time! Then, pace Jean-Luc, open it to accompany a jugged hare. Sounds good.