Hamilton Russell Vineyards Hemel-en-Aarde Valley Pinot Noir 2021

Anthony and winemaker Emul Ross think this, from a cool, late harvest, is the best Pinot they’ve made. It’s certainly the best of the 11 I tasted: a beautifully expressive wine with almost understated intensity and linear structure and exceptionally fine, silky, tannins. It’s lighter and more graceful than some vintages, but longer, more layered and somehow more hedonistic. The fruit has a pristine purity and elegance and touches on red apple and spice (a little reminiscent of top Meunier) as well as rose, raspberry and cherry. The sweet, nutty oak is a background murmur.