Hamilton Russell Vineyards Hemel-en-Aarde Valley Pinot Noir 2017

A celebrated, warm vintage that produced larger yields (partly because there was a component from a new, less marginal vineyard) of fully ripe grapes at lower than average alcohol. The endemic vineyard yeasts they’ve been using since 2015 are inefficient converters, says Anthony. The wine has the effortlessness and charm of 2015, but in a lighter, more ethereal, finer-boned mould. It opens with an immediately engaging cherry scent and beautiful, precise fruit that’s offset by a flowing undertow of briny seaweed. Gossamer-fine tannins give a silky texture that carries it through to a lifted, fresh finish. A very eloquent wine.