Hamilton Russell Vineyards Hemel-en-Aarde Valley Pinot Noir 2009

Distinctive liquorice and salty notes overlaying orange blossom and sweet orange, cranberry and juniper. Broad in shape with firm tannins, although silkier than previous wines, and the toasted oak, though evident, is finer and more polished (by this time, they were more focused on one cooper, François Frères, rather than using a variety, and on moderated toasting). The finish is a little abrupt and there isn’t the finesse of later wines, but there’s a lot going on and more to come. It was a celebrated vintage for South African wines, ‘but not top for us,’ says Anthony.