Hamilton Russell Vineyards Hemel-en-Aarde Valley Pinot Noir 1997

Sweet, spiced-cherry perfume and complex umami balsamic notes conveyed from nose to palate together with sweet pipe-tobacco, oak and a hint resin. There’s richness, fullness and a firm structure allied to fine detail in a vintage that Anthony says was ‘hugely respected’. The vines were quite different by this stage, the original, virus-affected Swiss clone having been replaced with virus-free Dijon selections (777, 667, 115, 113), the first in South Africa. The wine was only eight months in barriques, but 100% new Allier.