Hamilton Russell Vineyards Hemel-en-Aarde Valley Pinot Noir 1983

Made from vines aged 3–6 years. Garnet in colour with more brightness and depth than 1981. A riper, sweeter nose with dried-cherry fruit and without the leathery edge. Fuller on the palate and still showing oak (it had 18 months in barrique, compared to 10 today) and some tannin, but they’re balanced by a creamy, caramel-and-cappuccino texture and flavour. Lasted longer in the glass than 1981. Remarkable.