Hamilton Russell Vineyards Hemel-en-Aarde Valley Pinot Noir 1981

The winemaker’s notes for the release of this first vintage in October 1982 say: ‘Recommended length of laying down: 5–15 years’. Forty years on, we’re tasting two of Anthony’s five remaining bottles and the garnet-brown wine is thinning at the rim but undeniably alive when opened. After 40 minutes, it’s fading to leathery thinness, but before that it smells of spice, sweet leather, soy, sweet earth and dried fruit. The palate is supple and silky, but still has structure, acidity and a hint of menthol coolness and the finish is spicy with the dry smoothness of polished leather.