Another scion from a famous family, Balthazar now owns nearly 4ha, with a compelling parcel of centenarian vineyards in Les Chaillots to underline both credentials and pedigree. With a forebear named, rather wonderfully, Casimir Balthazar, one cannot fail to be intrigued. Whole-bunch fermentation and a couple of years in demi-muid (600 litres) have bequeathed a classic wine: violets, tobacco and earth on the nose, maybe a touch of cassis and eucalypt; robust and upstanding in the mid-palate, with a savoury depth and an inclination to age.