Doña Paula, Selección de Bodega Malbec 2016

Wherever they can, winemakers are heading for the hills. There are two reasons for this. First, this is insurance against the effects of global warming and the very real worry that traditional lowland regions will become unviable – and second, because winemakers love the effects of extreme height, combined with poor soils, on vines. Nowhere is this more evident than in Gualtallary in Argentina, where vines are cultivated in the foothills of the Andes. The Doña Paula Malbec is grown at 1350m, “where the organic matter [in the soil] is almost zero,” the winery reports with pride. Conditions like this produce intensely concentrated grapes and wines of extraordinary finesse. This Malbec has a deep savoury nose and is instantly juicy with superb acidity and the most velvety (though definitely present) tannins. The fruit is bright, red cherry at first deepening to black cherry and damson with notes of herb. Mouthwatering acidity throughout. A bold, powerful wine of huge charm, with terrific presence for its light (13.5%) alcoholic load. Delightful.