Dark fruit aromas leap out of the glass – this is a sprightly nose compared to the other wines and it’s absolutely seductive. There’s power here, a cushion of dark, opulent fruit around a backbone of fine tannins, lush mouthwatering acidity and those greenish notes from the stalks (de Villaine used around 70 per cent of stalks this year – they’re there, but very restrained). Restrained opulence and gorgeous with it.