What a perfumed nose – a florality that over the decades will fine down and melt to a rose-scented pot pourri. Then minerality and dark fruit, damson and sloe on the palate, full and fresh but layered and complex, lusciously juicy, it seems to have a weight that’s both dense and complex but airy, a mightly stained-glass window with sturdy stone tracery. Then a delicate finish that lingers. Wonderful wine.

*In bond UK.